Trapizzino Testaccio

The trapizzino is a modern Roman street food invented by the pizzaiolo Stefano Callegari: a triangle of pizza bianca, baked until crisp outside and soft inside, then split open and stuffed with the saucy, slow-cooked dishes of Roman home cooking. The shop on Via Giovanni Branca in Testaccio is where the idea began, and from here the brand has spread to several other locations in Rome and to other Italian cities.

Fillings rotate but typically include chicken cacciatora, meatballs in tomato sauce, coda alla vaccinara, tripe, and a range of vegetarian options. Each trapizzino is filled to order, and two make a satisfying light meal. Supplì, the Roman fried rice balls with mozzarella, and other fried snacks round out the menu, along with drinks.

It is a cheap, quick meal rather than a sit-down restaurant, with a small counter and limited seating inside and a few tables outside. Order at the counter and eat on the spot or take your food away. It is a good option for families with children, who usually enjoy the novelty, and for budget travellers who want to taste Roman flavours without the cost of a full trattoria meal.

Opening hours vary by location and season, so check the website before making a special trip. Because it is a counter service, it also works well as a fast lunch between sights when you do not want to commit to a long sit-down meal. The Testaccio shop is busiest at lunchtime and in the early evening. If you are not in the area, Trapizzino has other branches in Rome, including Piazza Trilussa in Trastevere, Ponte Milvio, Piazzale delle Provincie, the Mercato Centrale inside Termini station and a counter near Piazza Risorgimento close to the Vatican.

The Testaccio shop is a short walk from the Mercato di Testaccio and about ten minutes from Piramide station on Metro Line B. It makes an ideal stop after exploring the market, Monte Testaccio or the Protestant Cemetery, where Keats and Shelley are buried. The neighbourhood is also known for its traditional trattorias, such as Felice a Testaccio, if you want to return for a longer meal later in your stay.