Da Enzo al 29

Da Enzo al 29 is a small neighbourhood trattoria on Via dei Vascellari, in the quieter eastern part of Trastevere, away from the busiest lanes around Piazza di Santa Maria. It has only a few tables, dishes are cooked to order, and over the years it has become one of the most sought-after tables in the district, with a queue outside at almost every service.

The menu reads like a guide to Roman cooking. Starters include fried courgette flowers and carciofo alla giudia, the Jewish-style fried artichoke, when artichokes are in season. Then come the four great Roman pastas, carbonara, gricia, amatriciana and cacio e pepe, followed by secondi such as coda alla vaccinara, the slow-braised oxtail, tripe, meatballs in tomato sauce and lamb chops. Seasonal vegetables such as cicoria, bitter chicory sautéed with garlic and chilli, make a good side. Save room for the tiramisù. Portions are generous, so sharing a starter and ordering a pasta each is a sensible approach if you want to try several dishes without over-ordering.

There are no reservations, and guests are seated in order of arrival. To improve your chances, arrive a little before the doors open, at 12:00 for lunch or 18:30 for dinner, and expect to wait at busier times, particularly in the evening and at weekends. The trattoria is open Monday to Saturday, from 12:00 to 15:00 and from 18:30 to 22:30, and closed on Sundays. Special requests can be made through the contact form on the website.

The atmosphere is casual and lively, and the tables are tightly packed, so it suits couples, solo travellers and small groups rather than large parties. Prices are moderate, and the food is generous. It is a good choice for anyone who wants to try the full range of Roman classics in one meal.

Da Enzo is at Via dei Vascellari 29, a few minutes' walk from Viale di Trastevere, where tram 8 stops. The basilica of Santa Cecilia, with its marble statue of the saint, is just around the corner and worth a visit before lunch. From here it is also a short walk across Ponte Cestio to Tiber Island and on into the Jewish Ghetto, or across Ponte Garibaldi towards Campo de' Fiori.