Flavio al Velavevodetto

Flavio al Velavevodetto sits on Via di Monte Testaccio, at the foot of Monte Testaccio, the artificial hill that Romans also call the Monte dei Cocci. The hill was built up in ancient times from millions of broken amphorae, the clay jars used to ship olive oil to the river port, and the street that curves around it is lined with restaurants, bars and clubs carved into its flank. The restaurant is the original of a group that began in 1995 and now includes a second Rome branch, Velavevodetto ai Quiriti in Prati, and two restaurants in Milan.

The kitchen sticks firmly to the Roman tradition. The menu is built around fresh pasta, home-style sauces and the quinto quarto, the offal dishes for which Testaccio is famous, a legacy of the slaughterhouse that operated in the district for decades. Typical choices include the classic pastas, such as carbonara, amatriciana and cacio e pepe, as well as dishes such as oxtail, tripe and meatballs, along with seasonal vegetables. The wine list concentrates on producers chosen from local suppliers.

It is a large restaurant, with around 200 seats indoors and more than 100 outside, spread across a veranda, a terrace and street-side tables. The outdoor spaces make it particularly appealing in warmer months, when a long dinner outside is one of the pleasures of Testaccio. The size also means it can handle groups and private events more easily than the small trattorias of the centre.

The restaurant opens every day for lunch, from 12:30 to 15:00, and dinner, from 19:30 to 23:00. Book online through the website or by phone on +39 06 574 4194, particularly at weekends and if you want an outdoor table. The atmosphere is relaxed and family-friendly, and prices are moderate, making it a good choice for families, groups of friends and anyone who wants to try Roman offal dishes in a traditional setting.

Piramide station on Metro Line B is around ten minutes' walk away, and tram 3 stops nearby. After dinner, the bars along Via di Monte Testaccio stay open late. By day, combine a meal with the Mercato di Testaccio, the Protestant Cemetery and the Pyramid of Cestius, all within a short walk.