Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina

The Roscioli family story in Rome began in the late 1950s, when eleven brothers and cousins moved to the city from a small town in the Marche and became bakers. The family's bakery, Antico Forno Roscioli, is still a fixture of the area around Campo de' Fiori, and the Salumeria on Via dei Giubbonari combines a serious delicatessen with a busy restaurant. The family motto, roughly translated as before the cooking there is the raw material, sums up its approach.

The deli counter holds more than 150 varieties of cured meats and over 350 cheeses from artisan producers, and the restaurant tables sit among the shelves of wine, hams and preserves. Start with a plate of cured meats or cheeses, or with burrata, then move on to the Roman pastas for which the restaurant is best known: carbonara, amatriciana and cacio e pepe. The menu also includes dishes inspired by other Italian regions, built on products from the counter. Desserts are simple and well made.

Wine is a particular strength, with a cellar of more than 2,800 labels from Italy and abroad selected by Alessandro Roscioli and his team, plus amari, spirits and liqueurs. Staff are happy to suggest a glass to go with each course. The family also sells sauces and pasta kits, so you can take a taste of the restaurant home.

The restaurant serves lunch from 12:30 to 15:30 and dinner from 19:00 to 23:30 every day, while the shop is open from 9:00 to 23:30. It is compact and very popular, so book ahead through the reservations page on the website rather than turning up, particularly for dinner. The atmosphere is lively and the tables are close together, which suits couples and small groups more than large parties. Prices reflect the quality of the ingredients, and it is easy to spend more than at a neighbourhood trattoria.

The Salumeria is at Via dei Giubbonari 21, a short street running from Campo de' Fiori towards Via Arenula. Tram 8 and many buses stop at Largo di Torre Argentina, about five minutes' walk away. Pair a meal here with a visit to the family's bakery, a minute's walk away on Via dei Chiavari, for pizza bianca, or with breakfast at Roscioli Caffè on Piazza Benedetto Cairoli.