Felice a Testaccio

Felice Trivelloni opened his trattoria in Testaccio in 1936, and the Trivelloni family has run it ever since. Over the decades it has become one of the best-known trattorias in Rome, recognised as a bottega storica, a historic business of the city, and the family has expanded with restaurants in Milan, which opened in 2017, and Turin, which followed in 2024, as well as a takeaway counter near the Spanish Steps.

The dish that brought Felice its reputation is the cacio e pepe, brought to the table and finished in front of you, so the pecorino and black pepper turn into a smooth, glossy sauce around the pasta. The rest of the menu is just as Roman: carbonara and amatriciana, supplì, ravioli alla Felice, roast abbacchio with potatoes, meatballs in tomato sauce, carciofo alla romana and, in winter, puntarelle with anchovy dressing. To finish, the crostata di ricotta e visciole, a tart of ricotta and sour cherries, is a Roman classic.

The Rome restaurant opens every day for lunch, from 12:30 to 15:30, and dinner, from 19:00 to 23:30. Walk-in tables are scarce, so book online in advance through the restaurant's website. Note that cancellations are not accepted by phone, email or social media, so manage your booking through the online system. Groups of more than 12 should contact the restaurant by email at its group bookings address.

The restaurant is busy at most services, and the atmosphere suits families, groups of friends and couples alike. Children are generally welcome, and the menu has plenty of simple dishes for younger diners. Prices are moderate, and portions are generous, so two courses are usually plenty.

Felice is at Via Mastro Giorgio 29, in the grid of residential streets at the heart of Testaccio. Piramide station on Metro Line B is about ten minutes' walk away, and tram 3 and several buses stop nearby. The neighbourhood is ideal for a food-focused day: visit the Mercato di Testaccio in the morning, walk around Monte Testaccio and the Protestant Cemetery, then come here for a long lunch. The Pyramid of Cestius and the Aventine Hill, with the Giardino degli Aranci, are also within walking distance.