La Pergola

La Pergola sits on the top floor of the Rome Cavalieri, a Waldorf Astoria hotel set in parkland on Monte Mario, the hill that rises to the north-west of the Vatican. From its dining room the view stretches back across the city towards the dome of St Peter's, and the elevated position is part of the experience. Executive chef Heinz Beck has led the kitchen for decades, and the restaurant describes itself as historically the first, and still the only, restaurant in Rome to hold three Michelin stars. It reopened with a new architectural design, and the menu changes with the seasons.

Beck's cooking fuses Italian and Mediterranean tradition with a precise, creative approach, and there are two ways to eat: a Gourmet Menu, which takes you through a long sequence of courses, or the à la carte menu, from which you can build a shorter meal. Dishes are light and carefully balanced, with an emphasis on vegetables, fish and herbs as much as on richer ingredients. The hotel has a substantial wine cellar, and the sommeliers can guide pairings for either menu.

This is a special-occasion restaurant in every sense. Service is formal and attentive, the meal is long, and prices are at the top of the Roman scale, so it suits couples celebrating, serious food lovers and anyone who wants to experience fine dining at its most polished. It is not the place for a quick dinner or for young children. Smart dress is appropriate.

Book well in advance, particularly for weekends and the busiest months, through the Book Table link on the Rome Cavalieri website, by phone on +39 06 3509 2152 or by email to the reservations team. When booking, mention any dietary requirements and ask for a table near the windows if the view matters to you. The restaurant also offers special menus at Christmas and on New Year's Eve, which are booked separately.

The hotel is at Via Alberto Cadlolo 101, well outside the historic centre, and the simplest way to reach it is by taxi, which takes around 15 to 25 minutes from the centre depending on traffic. Allow time to arrive without rushing, and consider a drink in one of the hotel's bars beforehand. The surrounding Monte Mario nature reserve offers walking paths and views, though it is best explored by day rather than before dinner.