Thing to do
Mercato di Testaccio
Testaccio's covered neighbourhood market gathers around 100 stalls of produce, fish, street food and household goods above the remains of a Roman warehouse.
Trastevere
Rome's 13th rione, across the Tiber from the centre, is a web of cobbled lanes, ancient churches and trattorias that comes alive in the evening.
At a glance
- Type
- Historic neighbourhood
- Area
- Trastevere, Rome, Italy
- Official site
- turismoroma.it
Good to know
- Free to explore
- Churches
- Trattorias
- Evening atmosphere
Why we recommend it
Trastevere takes its name from the Latin trans Tiberim, meaning beyond the Tiber, and the district on the river's west bank has always had a character of its own. In ancient times it was home to sailors, traders and immigrant communities, and in later centuries it was a working-class neighbourhood whose residents considered themselves the truest Romans. Today it is one of the most popular areas of the city for an evening walk and dinner, but its cobbled lanes, ivy-covered houses and small squares still repay a slow wander by day.
Start at Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere, the heart of the district, where the basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere has one of the oldest Marian churches in Rome and shimmering mosaics on its facade and in the apse. The fountain in the middle of the square is a natural meeting point. From here, lanes lead in every direction. To the east, across Viale di Trastevere, the quieter streets around the basilica of Santa Cecilia are worth exploring; the church stands over the site of the saint's house and holds Stefano Maderno's moving marble statue of her body.
On the western edge, Via della Lungara runs towards the Vatican past Villa Farnesina, a Renaissance villa with frescoes by Raphael and his workshop, and Palazzo Corsini, home to part of the national collection of ancient art. Above the district, the Janiculum Hill offers wide views across the city's domes, and the walk up passes the church of San Pietro in Montorio with Bramante's small circular Tempietto in its courtyard.
The best plan is to arrive in the late afternoon, wander until the light fades, then stay for dinner. The area is packed with trattorias, bars and gelato shops, and the lanes around Piazza Trilussa and Vicolo del Cinque become very lively after dark, especially at weekends. During the day it is noticeably calmer, and Sunday mornings bring the Porta Portese flea market to the southern end of the district.
Trastevere suits almost everyone: couples looking for an atmospheric dinner, families with time to wander, and solo travellers who want a sociable evening. Cross the river on foot via Ponte Sisto from the Campo de' Fiori area, or take tram 8 from Largo di Torre Argentina to Viale di Trastevere. Wear comfortable shoes, as the cobbles are uneven.
Trastevere FAQs
How do I get to Trastevere?
Walk across Ponte Sisto from the Campo de' Fiori area, or take tram 8 from Largo di Torre Argentina.
What should I see in Trastevere?
Santa Maria in Trastevere and Santa Cecilia are the key churches, and Villa Farnesina lies on Via della Lungara.
When is the best time to visit?
Late afternoon into the evening, staying on for dinner.
Is Trastevere busy at night?
Yes, the lanes around Piazza Trilussa get very lively after dark, especially at weekends.
Is there a good viewpoint nearby?
Yes, the Janiculum Hill above the district has wide views over the city.
Is there a market?
The Porta Portese flea market takes place on Sunday mornings at the southern end of the district.
Is it suitable for families?
Yes, it is pleasant to explore on foot by day, though the cobbles are uneven for buggies.
What does the name mean?
It comes from the Latin trans Tiberim, beyond the Tiber.