Piperno

Piperno stands in a small, quiet piazza on Monte de' Cenci, on the edge of Rome's old Jewish Ghetto, and traces its history back to 1860. The restaurant was founded by the Piperno family and has been run since 1963 by the Mazzarella and Boni families, who have kept its traditional character through three generations. It is one of the reference points for Roman-Jewish cooking, the cuisine that developed over centuries in the Ghetto and gave the city some of its most famous dishes.

The signature starter is carciofi alla giudia, whole artichokes flattened and fried until the leaves are crisp and golden, best in the winter and spring artichoke season. Filetti di baccalà, battered fillets of salt cod, are another classic, along with other fried dishes. Main courses include fresh, hand-rolled pasta, coda alla vaccinara, the slow-cooked Roman oxtail, and trippa alla romana, as well as cacio e pepe, lamb chops and fried fish. Desserts are traditional, and the wine list covers Italian regions.

The atmosphere is traditional, and the service is formal in the classic Roman style. Book through the restaurant's website, where reservations are handled through a partner platform; a credit card is required to guarantee the table and the cancellation policy must be accepted. Credit cards are accepted for payment. Arrive on time for your booking, and allow a couple of hours if you want to enjoy a relaxed meal of several courses.

Dinner is served from Tuesday to Saturday, from 19:45 to 22:30, and lunch on Saturday and Sunday, from 12:45 to 14:30. The restaurant is closed on Mondays, and there is no dinner on Sunday. It suits couples, families with older children and anyone interested in the history of Roman food, and prices are at the upper end of the trattoria range.

Piperno is a short walk from Largo di Torre Argentina, where tram 8 and many buses stop. Afterwards, stroll through the Ghetto to the Portico d'Ottavia, the ruins of an ancient colonnade, and the Great Synagogue with its Jewish Museum, or to Piazza Mattei and its Turtle Fountain. Tiber Island and Trastevere are just across the river, and Campo de' Fiori is about five minutes away on foot.