Pizzarium Bonci

Pizzarium is Gabriele Bonci's original pizza shop in Rome, on Via della Meloria in the Prati area, a short walk from the Vatican Museums. Bonci became famous in Italy and abroad for transforming pizza al taglio, the Roman pizza by the slice, with long-fermented dough, high-quality flours and toppings that change with the seasons. The tiny shop has drawn queues for years, and the brand now also runs a bakery on Via Trionfale and counters at Termini station and Fiumicino airport.

Pizza is baked in long rectangular trays and cut to order with scissors. Point at what you want, indicate roughly how big a piece, and pay by weight. The base is light and airy with a crisp underside, and toppings range from classic combinations, such as tomato and mozzarella or potato and rosemary, to more unusual pairings of seasonal vegetables, cured meats and cheeses. The selection changes through the day as new trays come out of the oven, so it is worth looking along the whole counter before choosing. Roman fried snacks such as supplì are also sold, along with drinks.

This is a casual, stand-up affair. Space inside is very limited, with a few stools at most, so most people eat on the pavement outside or take slices away to a nearby bench. Ordering several different small pieces is the best way to try the range. Prices are higher than at an ordinary pizza al taglio shop but still make for an inexpensive lunch.

Pizzarium opens Monday to Saturday from 11:00 to 22:00. On Sunday it opens from 11:00 to 15:00 and again from 17:00 to 22:00. Queues are shortest just after opening and in the mid-afternoon, and longest at lunchtime when visitors from the Vatican arrive. It suits everyone, from families with children to solo travellers on a budget, and it is a useful lunch stop before or after a museum visit.

The shop is at Via della Meloria 43, about two minutes' walk from Cipro station on Metro Line A and around ten minutes from the Vatican Museums entrance on Viale Vaticano. The Trionfale covered market, one of the city's largest neighbourhood markets, is also close by if you want to explore further.