Da Cesare al Casaletto

Da Cesare al Casaletto is a neighbourhood trattoria in Monteverde, a residential district on the hills south-west of Trastevere, well away from the tourist circuit. In 2009 a married couple, Leonardo Vignoli and Maria Pia Cicconi, took over La Palma, a long-established trattoria on Via del Casaletto, and turned it into one of the most respected addresses for Roman cooking in the city, without losing its local, unpretentious feel.

The kitchen serves traditional Roman antipasti, primi and secondi, and the emphasis is on the quality of the raw materials: guanciale, pecorino romano, good olive oil, carefully sourced meat and seasonal vegetables. The menu covers the classic Roman pastas, slow-cooked meat dishes and seasonal greens. Dishes change with the seasons, so ask what is good that day. The trattoria also offers a wide selection of wines from Lazio and beyond, and the staff are happy to recommend local bottles that are hard to find elsewhere.

The success of the Casaletto led the team to open da Cesare al Pellegrino, a second trattoria at Via del Pellegrino 117 near Campo de' Fiori, and a Laboratorio nearby on Largo Alberto Pepere. The Pellegrino branch is more convenient if you are staying in the centre, but the original has a particular charm as a genuine neighbourhood restaurant used by local families.

Book online through the restaurant's website, especially for weekends and dinner, or call +39 06 536015. The atmosphere is relaxed, and it suits families, couples and food lovers who want to see how Romans eat outside the centre. Prices are moderate for the quality of the cooking. Ask the staff about the Lazio wines on the list, as they are a good way to discover local producers.

Getting there is part of the experience. Take tram 8 from Largo di Torre Argentina or from Trastevere to its Casaletto terminus, a ride of around 25 minutes across the river and up through Monteverde; the trattoria is a short walk from the last stop. A taxi from the centre takes around 15 minutes depending on traffic. Before or after the meal, the large park of Villa Doria Pamphilj, one of the biggest in Rome, is within reach for a walk among its pines and gardens.