Candlenut

Candlenut is led by chef-owner Malcolm Lee, a Peranakan who grew up eating the dishes cooked by his mother and grandmother, and in 2016 it became the first Peranakan restaurant in the world to earn a Michelin star. It has held the star since, and it is now based in the leafy COMO Dempsey enclave, in a modern dining room with high ceilings and large windows looking on to greenery.

The cooking is rooted in Straits Chinese family recipes, but refined in technique and presentation. Flavours stay bold: expect rich rempah spice pastes, the earthy depth of buah keluak black nuts, tangy tamarind and the fragrance of lemongrass, galangal and fresh herbs. The restaurant describes its cooking as dishes that honour heritage while using quality produce, and many plates are recognisable versions of classics, from curries to braised meats, sharpened for a fine-dining setting.

The easiest way to understand the kitchen is the Ah-Ma-Kase menu, a play on omakase and the Hokkien word for grandmother. It is a chef's choice menu served at both lunch and dinner, with a spread of dishes brought to the table to share. There is also an à la carte menu for smaller appetites or those who prefer to choose, and desserts are worth leaving room for. The drinks list includes wines and cocktails chosen to stand up to the spices.

Candlenut suits couples, families and groups celebrating a special occasion, and the sharing format works best with three or more diners. Booking is recommended, particularly for dinner and weekends, and the team can advise on dietary requirements when you reserve. Prices are at the upper end, but lunch is a more affordable way to experience the kitchen. Vegetarians should mention it when booking, as many traditional Peranakan dishes are built around meat and seafood.

Dempsey Hill is a former British army barracks turned dining and lifestyle enclave near the Singapore Botanic Gardens. It is not on the MRT, so take a taxi or bus, or walk about 15 to 20 minutes from Napier station. Arrive early for a drink in one of the neighbouring venues, or combine lunch with a morning in the Botanic Gardens, whose Tanglin entrance is a short ride away.