Zam Zam

Zam Zam has been cooking Indian-Muslim food in Kampong Gelam since 1908, which makes it one of the oldest restaurants in Singapore. It stands on North Bridge Road, directly opposite Sultan Mosque, and its name has become synonymous with murtabak. The restaurant is still a busy, no-frills operation, with a griddle at the shopfront and simple tables spread over two floors.

Murtabak is the reason to come. A thin dough is stretched by hand until almost translucent, then folded around a filling of spiced minced meat, egg and onion, and cooked on the hot plate until crisp and golden. It is cut into squares and served with a bowl of curry for dipping and pickled onions on the side. Mutton is the classic choice, with chicken and beef also on the menu, and sizes range from small to very large. The other big seller is nasi biryani, fragrant rice served with chicken or mutton and a ladle of curry gravy. Wash it down with teh tarik, the sweet pulled milk tea.

Watching the murtabak being made is part of the experience. The cooks at the front stretch, flip and fold the dough at speed, and you can see your meal being prepared before you sit down. Portions are generous, so a medium murtabak shared between two, with a plate of biryani, is plenty for most people. Prices are modest, and service is quick rather than lingering.

Zam Zam suits budget travellers, families and anyone curious about the Indian-Muslim food that has shaped Singapore's culinary history. It serves halal food and no alcohol. It is especially busy at lunchtime, on weekend evenings and during Ramadan, when the area around the mosque fills after sunset, so expect a short wait at those times. Upstairs seating is usually calmer.

The restaurant is at 697-699 North Bridge Road, a short walk from Bugis MRT station. It is ideally placed for a meal after exploring Sultan Mosque, Haji Lane and Arab Street, and the bars of Kampong Gelam and Atlas in Parkview Square are a few minutes away if you want a drink afterwards. Its long-time neighbour and rival, Victory, a few doors along, also serves murtabak, so the stretch is a good place to compare the dish.