Lau Pa Sat

Lau Pa Sat, whose name means old market in Hokkien, is a Victorian cast-iron market hall standing among the glass towers of the Central Business District. The octagonal pavilion was completed in 1894 to a design by municipal engineer James MacRitchie, using ironwork cast in Glasgow, and it was declared a National Monument in 1973. Today it is a food centre with dozens of stalls under its ornate roof, open around the clock.

Inside, the stalls cover much of Singapore's food in one place: noodles, rice dishes, curries, Indian breads, dim sum, Western grills and local desserts, plus drinks stalls selling fresh juices, beer and coffee. It is an easy place for a group in which everyone wants something different, and the clock tower and filigree ironwork make it one of the most attractive places to eat in the area.

The real draw comes after dark, when the adjoining stretch of Boon Tat Street closes to traffic and becomes Satay Street. Rows of grills send up smoke as hawkers cook sticks of chicken, mutton, beef and prawn over charcoal, served with peanut sauce, cucumber, onion and rice cakes, and tables spill across the road. Satay Street runs from 7pm on weekdays and from 3pm at weekends, until 3am. Order a mixed set to share, and add a jug of beer or sugar cane juice.

Lunchtime is very busy with office workers, so arrive before noon or after 1.30pm if you want a table easily. Evenings, especially at weekends, are lively on Satay Street, and the atmosphere is part of the fun. Prices are higher than at neighbourhood hawker centres because of the location and setting, but still reasonable. Families, groups and first-time visitors all do well here, and individual stalls keep their own opening hours even though the hall itself never closes.

Lau Pa Sat is at 18 Raffles Quay, between Telok Ayer and Raffles Place MRT stations, each a few minutes' walk away, and Downtown station is also close. It fits well into an evening around Marina Bay: walk to the Merlion and the waterfront after dinner, or head up to LeVeL33 in Marina Bay Financial Centre for a drink with a view. Thian Hock Keng Temple and the bars and restaurants of Telok Ayer Street are a few minutes away in the other direction.