Hünkar

Hünkar is a family-run lokanta, a traditional Turkish restaurant serving ready-cooked dishes, with a history going back to 1950. Its founder, Talip Ügümü, began working in restaurant kitchens as a boy in Erzurum before moving to Istanbul, and he opened the first Hünkar in Fatih with just a handful of tables. The restaurant moved to Nişantaşı in 2000, and it is now run by his sons, with the next generation also working in the business. Its name comes from an Ottoman word for the sultan.

The cooking is rooted in Ottoman and Turkish home cooking, drawing on Istanbul and Anatolian traditions as well as Greek, Armenian, Circassian and Cypriot influences. The kitchen prepares around 30 dishes a day, built around seasonal vegetables, meat and fish, and they are displayed at the counter so you can see what is available. Because the dishes change daily, two visits a few days apart can feel quite different, which is part of the pleasure for regular customers. The signature is hünkar beğendi, tender braised lamb served on a creamy purée of smoked aubergine, and in winter look for ayvalı yahni, a lamb stew with quince.

Ordering is simple. Look at the display, point to what appeals and ask the staff for advice if the dishes are unfamiliar. Olive-oil vegetable dishes, stuffed vegetables and soups make good starters, and there are classic milk puddings and fruit desserts to finish. The dining room is smart but unpretentious, with white tablecloths and attentive service.

Lunchtime is busy with people from the surrounding shops and offices, so arrive early or come for dinner, when it is calmer. It is a good choice for a long, relaxed meal and for trying dishes rarely found on tourist menus. In 2007 the British magazine Restaurant listed it among the world's top 100 restaurants, a reminder of its standing among Istanbul food lovers.

Hünkar suits food lovers, families and anyone wanting traditional Turkish cooking done carefully. It is on Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi in Nişantaşı, a short walk from Osmanbey metro station on the M2 line. Nişantaşı's designer shops and cafés are all around, and Maçka Park is a pleasant walk to the south.