Hamdi Restaurant

Hamdi is a large kebab restaurant occupying a multi-storey building on Kalçın Sokak, a lane off Tahmis Caddesi just behind the Spice Bazaar at Eminönü. It is one of the most popular places for kebab in the historic peninsula, with a big dining operation that serves local families, office groups and visitors through the day.

The menu centres on kebabs and grilled meats cooked over charcoal, in the style of south-eastern Turkey. Expect a long list of minced and cubed meat kebabs, lamb chops and mixed grills, supported by meze, salads, lahmacun, the thin spiced flatbread, and pide. Finish with a traditional dessert such as künefe, shredded pastry baked with cheese and syrup, or baklava. Portions are generous, so ordering a few dishes to share works well. If you are unsure what to choose, ask the waiters to suggest a mixed selection; they are used to visitors and will happily explain the differences between the various kebabs.

The upper dining rooms and the terrace look across the Golden Horn towards Galata, with the Galata Bridge and the ferry traffic below, and these tables are the ones to ask for, particularly around sunset.

Hamdi is well organised and used to large groups, which makes it a reliable choice for families after a morning in the bazaars. Book ahead by phone if you want a window or terrace table, as these fill first, especially in the evening and at weekends. Service is quick and the dining rooms are busy and lively rather than intimate. There is a second branch in Şişli, but the Eminönü original is the one to choose for its location and view.

The restaurant suits families, groups and anyone wanting a hearty kebab meal in the middle of the old city. Eminönü tram stop on the T1 line and the ferry piers are a few minutes' walk away. The Spice Bazaar is around the corner, the New Mosque and Rüstem Pasha Mosque are close by, and the Galata Bridge leads across to Karaköy. Walking off lunch uphill to the Süleymaniye Mosque is a good way to round off the afternoon.