Hodjapasha Whirling Dervishes Ceremony

The Hodjapasha Culture Centre occupies a large 15th-century hamam, a Turkish bath, in the lanes behind Sirkeci station that has been restored and converted into an intimate performance venue. Its main programme is the sema, the whirling ceremony associated with the Mevlevi order of Sufis, which is presented every evening with live music.

The ceremony is a religious ritual rather than a dance show, and it follows a set structure. Musicians play traditional instruments, including the ney, an end-blown reed flute, while the semazens, dressed in white robes and tall felt hats, enter, bow and begin to turn slowly, one arm raised and one lowered, gradually filling the floor. The performance lasts about an hour. The seating is arranged around the circular space under the old bath's domes, so most seats give a clear view. The slow, repetitive turning is intended as a form of prayer and remembrance rather than a spectacle, which is worth bearing in mind if you expect a fast-paced show. Reading a little about Rumi and the Mevlevi order beforehand adds a great deal to the experience.

The whirling dervish ceremony starts every day at 19:00. A separate show, Rhythm of the Dance, presents folk dances from across Turkey on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 20:30 and lasts about 65 minutes. Tickets are sold through the centre's own website, and seats are allocated on a first-booked basis, so booking early gives you a better position. Check in about 30 minutes before the start. The minimum age for the dervish ceremony is seven.

Photography is not allowed during the dervish ceremony, and applause is not expected while it is in progress, so settle in and treat it as you would a religious service. Photos without flash are possible during Rhythm of the Dance. Arrive on time, as late entry disturbs the performance, and switch phones to silent.

The ceremony suits couples, solo travellers and families with older children who are interested in Turkish culture and music. The centre is on Hocapaşa Hamamı Sokak, off Ankara Caddesi, a few minutes' walk from Sirkeci tram stop on the T1 line and Sirkeci Marmaray station. It fits neatly after a day at Topkapı Palace or Gülhane Park, and the streets around Sirkeci and Eminönü have plenty of places for dinner afterwards.