Skip to content

Xemei

Restaurant · Venetian Italian$$$Poble Sec, Barcelona

A small Venetian restaurant at the foot of Montjuïc in Poble Sec, cooking the dishes of Venice's home kitchens and bàcari rather than generic Italian fare.

At a glance

Type
Venetian Italian
Area
Poble Sec, Barcelona, Spain
Price
$$$ · Upscale
Official site
xemei.es

Why we recommend it

Xemei, Venetian dialect for twins, is run by the Colombo brothers and brings the cooking of Venice to a quiet corner of Poble Sec, below the gardens of Montjuïc. Rather than offering a broad Italian menu of pizza and familiar pasta, it concentrates on the dishes of Venice and the Venetian lagoon: seafood, polenta, risotto, pasta and the small snacks, or cicchetti, that are served with a glass of wine in the city's bàcari.

The menu changes with the seasons and the market, so look for daily specials alongside the regular dishes, and ask the staff to explain anything unfamiliar. Venetian cooking relies on fish and seafood from the lagoon and the Adriatic, and on polenta and rice rather than the tomato-rich sauces of southern Italy, so flavours tend to be lighter and subtler than in many Italian restaurants. The emphasis is on the home cooking of Venice rather than restaurant clichés, which makes it a rewarding place for anyone who knows Italian food only from pizzerias.

The dining room is compact and informal, with a slightly old-fashioned trattoria feel, and it is popular with locals, so reserve rather than turning up on spec. Booking can be made through the reservations page on the official website or by email to [email protected]. Opening hours are not published on the website, so check when booking. The restaurant also offers catering for events, and sells a small range of products online.

Xemei suits couples and small groups who enjoy regional Italian food and a relaxed, neighbourhood atmosphere. It is mid-priced, and the portions are generous. It is a good choice for a long lunch after a morning on Montjuïc, or for dinner before a show at one of the theatres on Avinguda del Paral·lel.

The restaurant is on Passeig de l'Exposició, a leafy street at the foot of Montjuïc in Poble Sec, about ten minutes' walk from Poble Sec station on metro line L3. The neighbourhood's Carrer de Blai, lined with pintxos bars, is close by, and Quimet & Quimet is a short walk away for an aperitif before dinner. The Montjuïc funicular from Paral·lel and the Fundació Joan Miró are also within easy reach.

Xemei FAQs

What kind of food does Xemei serve?

Venetian cooking, from seafood and cicchetti to risotto, pasta and polenta.

Where is it?

On Passeig de l'Exposició in Poble Sec, at the foot of Montjuïc.

What does Xemei mean?

Twins, in Venetian dialect; the restaurant is run by the Colombo brothers.

Do you need to book?

Yes, it is small and popular. Book through the website or by emailing [email protected].

What is the phone number?

+34 935 53 51 40.

Is it expensive?

It is mid-priced, with generous portions.

Which metro station is nearest?

Poble Sec, on line L3, about ten minutes' walk.

What is nearby?

Carrer de Blai and its pintxos bars, Quimet & Quimet and the Montjuïc funicular.

Also in Barcelona

Barcelona travel guide

Hotel

Hotel Arts Barcelona

Luxury seafront hotel$$$$Port Olímpic

A Ritz-Carlton tower hotel on the Port Olímpic seafront, with two outdoor pools, a fourth-floor spa and the two-Michelin-star Enoteca Paco Pérez.

Thing to do

Mercat de la Boqueria

Food marketEl Raval

Barcelona's best-known food market, entered from La Rambla under a wrought-iron arch, packed with produce stalls, fishmongers and busy counter bars.

Café

Nømad Coffee Lab

Speciality coffee bar$$Sant Pere (Ciutat Vella)

The original coffee bar of Nømad, the Barcelona speciality roaster founded by Jordi Mestre, tucked into a quiet passage near the Palau de la Música.

Bar

Paradiso

Speakeasy cocktail bar$$$El Born

An El Born speakeasy reached through a fridge door at the back of a pastrami bar, named number one in The World's 50 Best Bars in…