Cal Pep

Cal Pep is one of Barcelona's classic counter restaurants. You sit on a stool at the long bar facing the cooks, let the waiters guide you, and plates arrive straight from the griddles and pans a metre away. The menu runs to more than 70 dishes, with fish and shellfish at its heart, and much of the cooking happens live in front of you, which is a big part of the appeal.

There is no need to study the list for long. Tell the staff what you like and how hungry you are, and they will bring a run of the house's most emblematic dishes, usually a mix of fried, griddled and stewed seafood alongside a few meat and vegetable plates. Shared plates are the format, so it works best for two to four people. Portions and prices add up quickly if you keep ordering, so pace yourself and ask for the bill at the point you feel full.

The counter works on a first-come, first-served basis and is the busiest part of the restaurant. Arrive before the doors open if you want to be sure of a seat, especially at dinner and on Saturdays; otherwise expect to wait. At the back there is a small dining room with 26 seats where booking ahead is recommended. Cal Pep opens Monday evenings from 7.30pm to 11.30pm, Tuesday to Friday from 1pm to 3.45pm and 7.30pm to 11.30pm, and Saturday from 1.15pm to 3.45pm and 7.30pm to 11.30pm. It is closed on Sundays, and for public holidays the restaurant advises checking its listing online.

The counter suits couples and small groups who enjoy energy and conversation, and solo diners are well looked after at the bar. It is less suitable for anyone wanting a quiet, lingering meal, or for diners who do not eat seafood. Children are welcome, but the high stools are not ideal for small ones.

Cal Pep is on Plaça de les Olles, a small square in El Born close to the basilica of Santa Maria del Mar and the Passeig del Born. Barceloneta station on line L4 is about five minutes' walk away, as is Jaume I. Afterwards, the cocktail bars of El Born, including Paradiso, are a short stroll, and the Museu Picasso and the Mercat de Santa Caterina are close by for a daytime visit.