7 Portes

7 Portes, the seven doors, opened in 1836 and is one of Barcelona's longest-running restaurants. Its large, traditional dining rooms give it a sense of occasion without stiffness, and it draws local diners as well as visitors trying their first paella. It stands under the arcades of Passeig d'Isabel II, close to the old Llotja exchange, between the Gothic Quarter and Barceloneta.

Rice is the speciality. The menu offers a range of paellas, black rice cooked with cuttlefish ink and soupy rice dishes, as well as traditional Catalan cannelloni, seafood, fish and grilled meat, and a traditional chopped roast. Rice dishes are usually ordered for at least two people, so it is a good place to share. Portions are generous, and the long, continuous opening hours make it easy to fit a meal around sightseeing.

The restaurant is open every day from 1pm to midnight, without a break, which is unusual in Barcelona and makes it a useful choice for a late lunch or an early dinner. Book a table through the reservation system on the official website, especially for weekend lunch and dinner, when it is busiest. Groups are well catered for, and the restaurant hosts jazz nights and seasonal menus, including at Christmas. Gift cards and an online shop are available too. If you are unsure which rice to choose, ask the waiter for a recommendation based on how many people are sharing and whether you prefer seafood or meat.

7 Portes suits families, groups and anyone wanting a classic Catalan meal in a historic setting. It is mid-to-upper priced, reflecting the quality and the location. Service is professional and efficient, and staff are used to international visitors. If you prefer a more casual format, the group also runs La Barra del 7 Portes, smaller sharing-style restaurants on Carrer de la Reina Cristina near the port and on Carrer d'Amigó in Sant Gervasi.

The restaurant is a few minutes' walk from Barceloneta station on metro line L4. It is well placed for exploring El Born, whose basilica of Santa Maria del Mar and Museu Picasso are just north, and for walking along Port Vell or out to the beach at Barceloneta after lunch. The Estació de França railway station is also close by.