Keens Steakhouse

Keens opened in 1885 under Albert Keen, when the streets around Herald Square formed the city's theatre district, and it became a gathering place for actors, producers and writers. Today it describes itself as the only survivor of that Herald Square Theatre District, and its dark wood dining rooms, crowded with playbills, photographs and memorabilia, are among the most atmospheric in Manhattan.

The ceilings are the first thing most people notice. Tens of thousands of long clay churchwarden pipes hang in rows overhead, a reminder of the days when regular customers kept their own pipes at the restaurant. Some belonged to well-known patrons, and the collection makes the rooms feel like a museum of old New York dining.

The signature dish is the mutton chop, a substantial saddle cut of lamb that has been on the menu for generations, but the dry-aged steaks, prime rib and Dover sole are just as popular. Sides are traditional steakhouse fare. The bar has a long whisky list and a well-known Bloody Mary, served at happy hour, and the pub room offers a more relaxed setting for a burger or a lighter meal. Several private rooms are used for banquets and celebrations.

Keens is open Monday to Friday from 11:45am to 10:30pm, Saturday from 5pm to 10:30pm and Sunday from 5pm to 9:30pm, and it is open every day of the year except Christmas Day. Reservations are taken by phone or by email, and booking ahead is wise for dinner, particularly before events at Madison Square Garden. Prices are high but slightly below the city's most expensive steakhouses, and portions are generous. It suits couples, business dinners and groups looking for a classic New York evening, and first-time visitors should ask to see the pipes and memorabilia in the other rooms before they leave.

The restaurant is at 72 West 36th Street, between Fifth and Sixth Avenues. The 34th Street–Herald Square station on the B, D, F, M, N, Q, R and W lines is about three minutes away, and Penn Station and Madison Square Garden are a short walk west. The Empire State Building is two blocks south-east, so dinner here pairs well with an evening visit to the observatory.