Bu Qtair

Bu Qtair started life as a simple shack serving fishermen near the Umm Suqeim harbour and has grown into a busy seafood restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating, while keeping its casual, no-frills spirit. It gained international attention when Anthony Bourdain featured it on his CNN series Parts Unknown in 2013, and Burj Al Arab is visible from nearby, an unlikely backdrop for one of the cheapest seafood meals in Dubai.

The food is the point, and the system is simple. There is little in the way of a printed menu: you choose from the fish and prawns available that day, which are marinated in a spice paste and fried, then served with rice or paratha and a bowl of fish curry. Kingfish, hammour and prawns are typical, but the catch changes, so ask what is good. Prices are low and portions generous, and sharing a selection is the best approach for a group.

Expect queues in the evening and at weekends, when the tables outside fill quickly and you may wait for both a seat and the food, which is cooked to order. A late lunch or an early dinner is the easiest time to go. Seating is basic and service is friendly but brisk. It is not a place for a long, leisurely meal, but for a plate of hot spiced fish eaten by the sea it is hard to beat. Alcohol is not served.

Families are welcome and children usually enjoy the fried prawns, while anyone who avoids spice should ask for a milder marinade. Vegetarians will find very little to eat, as almost everything is seafood. Bring patience at peak times and dress casually; many diners come straight from the beach.

Bu Qtair is close to the fishing harbour in Umm Suqeim, near Jumeirah Beach Road, and a taxi is the easiest way to get there, as there is no Metro station within walking distance. Kite Beach is a short drive north, and the Madinat Jumeirah area with its souk and waterways is a short drive south, so it pairs well with an afternoon at the beach.