Al Ustad Special Kabab

Al Ustad Special Kabab has been grilling kebabs in Bur Dubai since 1978, long before the skyscrapers arrived, and it is one of the city's best-loved old restaurants. Still family-run and named after its late founder, Mohammed Al Ansari, whose photographs appear all over the walls, it has changed very little over the decades. The dining room is simple and busy, the tables are close together and the walls are covered with photos of regulars, including royalty, sports stars and celebrities, and banknotes from around the world are laid under the glass tabletops.

The food is Iranian, and the menu is short. Kebabs are the reason to come: koobideh made from minced lamb, the house kebab khas of yoghurt-marinated chicken, joojeh kebab with saffron, and mixed grills, all cooked over charcoal and served with buttery saffron rice or bread, grilled tomatoes and raw onion. Iranian lentil soup is a traditional starter, and the staff are happy to make recommendations if you are unsure what to order. Portions are generous and prices are low by Dubai standards.

Most diners simply walk in, so expect to queue at peak times, particularly around 8pm to 10pm and at weekends. Arriving early in the evening or for a late lunch is the easiest way to get a table straight away. Service is quick and friendly, and turnover is fast, which keeps waits manageable. It is a casual place where nobody minds children, and it works well for groups who want to share several plates of meat.

Vegetarians will find little to eat here beyond rice, salad and soup. The restaurant does not serve alcohol. Allow time to look at the walls, which are part of the experience and give a sense of how many people have come through the door over almost half a century.

The restaurant is in the older part of Bur Dubai, a short walk from the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood and Al Fahidi Metro station on the Green Line. It makes a good dinner after an afternoon exploring the heritage quarter, the Al Seef waterfront and the souks on both sides of Dubai Creek, which you can reach by abra.