Al Ustad Special Kabab

Al Ustad has been grilling kebabs in Bur Dubai since 1978, long before the skyscrapers arrived, and is often described as the city's oldest Iranian restaurant. Still family-run and named after its late founder, it has changed very little: tables are topped with glass over banknotes from around the world, clocks show different time zones, and the walls are covered in photographs of famous diners.

The house speciality is the kebab khas, chicken marinated in yoghurt and grilled over charcoal, while the saffron joojeh chicken and koobideh are equally popular. Kebabs come with saffron-scented rice and flatbread, and fresh herbs and yoghurt arrive at the table first. It is inexpensive and fills up at lunch and late in the evening, so expect to share space or wait briefly.