Clube de Fado

Clube de Fado is one of the best-known fado houses in Lisbon. It was founded in 1995 by Mário Pacheco, a Portuguese guitar player who accompanied Amália Rodrigues, and it occupies a building more than three hundred years old on Rua de São João da Praça, just below the cathedral on the edge of Alfama. The whole evening is dedicated to Lisbon's urban song.

Fado is performed live every night. The format is typical of a traditional casa de fados: singers, accompanied by the Portuguese guitar and the classical guitar, perform short sets that alternate with the courses of dinner. In fado houses it is customary to stay silent while a singer is performing, so save conversation for the breaks between sets. The line-up changes from night to night and features both established fadistas and younger singers.

There is no separate ticket for the show. Instead, the evening is built around a single dinner menu of Portuguese cooking, with couvert, a starter, a main course and a dessert chosen from a set list, and the performance is included in the price. This makes it one of the more expensive evenings out in the city, but you are paying for the music as much as the meal. A special menu is offered for New Year's Eve at a higher price.

The house is open every day. The kitchen opens at 19:30, the fado begins at around 20:30 and the evening continues until 01:00, so allow at least three hours for dinner and several sets. Book ahead, particularly at weekends and in the summer months, and mention any dietary needs when reserving. Smart casual dress fits the setting. It suits couples and small groups who want a dedicated fado evening rather than a quick drink with music.

The club is a short walk downhill from the cathedral, where trams 28 and 12 stop, and about ten minutes on foot from the Baixa. The Fado Museum at Largo do Chafariz de Dentro, a few minutes away, makes a good visit earlier in the day to learn about the history of the music before you hear it live. After midnight, a taxi or ride-hailing car is the easiest way back to your hotel.