Walking in Alfama

Alfama is the oldest part of Lisbon and the neighbourhood that most visitors picture when they think of the city: whitewashed and tiled houses, washing strung between balconies, steep stairways and small squares with a church or a fountain. It spreads down the slope between São Jorge Castle and the Tagus, and under Moorish rule it was effectively the whole city. Its name is usually traced to an Arabic word linked to hot springs.

Because Alfama stands on solid rock, it came through the earthquake of 1755 far better than the Baixa below, and it kept its tangle of medieval lanes rather than being rebuilt on a grid. That is what makes it rewarding to explore on foot, and also what makes it easy to get lost. Maps are of limited use in the narrowest alleys, so the best approach is to choose a few landmarks and wander between them.

A good route starts at the cathedral and climbs past the Church of Santo António to the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, a terrace with tiled panels and views over the rooftops to the river. A few steps on, the Miradouro das Portas do Sol looks across to the dome of the National Pantheon and the white facade of São Vicente de Fora. From there, drop down through the lanes towards Largo do Chafariz de Dentro, where the Fado Museum stands, and finish by the river. On Tuesdays and Saturdays, add the Feira da Ladra flea market at Campo de Santa Clara.

Alfama is closely tied to fado, and many small restaurants offer live fado in the evenings, especially along Rua de São João da Praça and around the cathedral. In June, during the festivities of the popular saints and above all on the night of Saint Anthony, the neighbourhood fills with street parties, grilled sardines and decorations, which is lively but very crowded.

Wear comfortable shoes with good grip, as the cobbles are polished and slippery, and many routes involve stairs, so the area is hard going with a pushchair or for anyone with limited mobility. Mornings are quietest. Allow at least half a day. Tram 28 and tram 12 skirt the top of the neighbourhood, and bus 737 climbs to the castle, so you can ride up and walk down. Remember that people live here: keep noise down in residential lanes and ask before photographing anyone.