Belcanto

Belcanto is the flagship of José Avillez, the chef who has done more than most to put contemporary Portuguese cooking on the international map. The restaurant sits on Rua Serpa Pinto in Chiado, in the heart of the old theatre district, and holds two Michelin stars. It is a small, formal dining room aimed at a special occasion rather than a casual dinner, and tables are limited.

The cooking takes Portuguese products, from the sea, the countryside and the country's long history of trade, and reworks them with modern technique and a strong sense of theatre. The Belcanto tasting menu is presented as a journey through the restaurant's history and its continuing evolution, so expect dishes that refer to classic Portuguese recipes while looking very different on the plate. The menus change over time, and the wine list gives Portuguese producers a prominent place, so ask the sommelier for suggestions to match your dishes.

There are two ways to eat. You can choose the tasting menu, or opt for the à la carte, in which each person picks one or two starters, one main course and one dessert. Both begin with a series of snacks and end with petits fours. Every diner must choose either the tasting menu or an à la carte selection, and dishes are not designed for sharing, so plan your choices accordingly if you are in a group.

Belcanto opens Tuesday to Saturday for lunch from 12:30 to 15:00 and dinner from 19:00 to 22:00, and it is closed on Sundays and Mondays. Book well ahead, especially for weekend dinners and in high season, and allow around three hours for the full tasting menu. Smart dress suits the setting. Mention any allergies or dietary needs when booking so the kitchen can prepare. Lunch is usually the easier slot to secure at short notice.

The restaurant is a short walk from the Baixa-Chiado metro station. The São Carlos National Theatre, the Chiado's historic cafés and bookshops and the viewpoints of Bairro Alto are all within a few minutes, so a pre-dinner stroll through the area or a drink nearby afterwards fits easily into the evening. José Avillez's more relaxed Bairro do Avillez is also close by if you want a taste of his cooking at a lower price.