A Ginjinha

A Ginjinha is a tiny bar with a big reputation. It was opened in 1840 by a Galician named Espinheira on Largo de São Domingos, the small square beside the Church of São Domingos just off Rossio, and it has hardly changed since. There are no tables or stools inside: you order at the counter, take your glass and drink it standing in the doorway or on the square outside, along with a mix of locals and visitors.

Ginjinha, or simply ginja, is a liqueur made by steeping sour cherries in a spirit with sugar, and it is one of the most traditional drinks in Lisbon. According to the bar, its recipe is attributed to a monk. You can ask for it with or without cherries, com elas or sem elas, and the cherries at the bottom of the glass are soaked through with the liqueur. A shot is usually drunk quickly, and many people order a second. The house also serves its own capilé, a syrup traditionally made from maidenhair fern, as well as bagaço, a grape-pomace brandy, and other drinks.

Production has moved from the original address on Rua Damasceno Monteiro to Arruda dos Vinhos, outside Lisbon, and the company produces around 150,000 litres a year, about a tenth of which is exported, mostly to the United States. Bottles are on sale at the counter, and they make a simple souvenir to take home.

The bar is open every day from morning until 22:00, so it works as a short stop at almost any time, whether as an aperitif before dinner, a digestif afterwards or a quick break while walking through the Baixa. It suits everyone, from solo travellers to groups, and prices are low. Visits rarely last more than a few minutes. Bring small change, and note that the square can be busy, so keep an eye on your belongings.

Largo de São Domingos is a few steps from Rossio and the Rossio metro station on the green line. The Church of São Domingos, with its fire-scarred interior, is next door and worth a look. Other ginjinha bars nearby, such as Ginjinha Sem Rival on Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, let you compare styles, and the Teatro Nacional and Praça da Figueira are just around the corner.