Balthazar

Balthazar opened on Spring Street in SoHo in 1997, and Keith McNally's recreation of a classic Parisian brasserie has been one of downtown's busiest dining rooms ever since. Red leather banquettes, antique mirrors, a zinc-topped bar, tiled floors and big brass light fittings give the room a lived-in look, and the noise level rises with the crowd through the evening. Bread and pastries come from Balthazar's own bakery.

The menu is a long list of French brasserie classics done reliably well. The raw bar is a highlight, with shellfish platters stacked on ice, and many regulars start with oysters. French onion soup, steak frites, moules, duck confit and a burger are dependable main courses, and the croque monsieur is a lunchtime favourite. At breakfast, pastries, eggs and French toast draw a mix of locals and visitors, while weekend brunch is one of the most popular sittings in the neighbourhood.

Balthazar serves throughout the day. Breakfast runs on weekdays from 8am to 11am and lunch from 11:30am to 4:30pm. At weekends, brunch is served from 9am to 4pm. Dinner is served every night from 5pm until midnight, which makes it a good choice for a late meal after a show or an evening out. Reservations can be made by phone or through the booking page on the website.

Weekday breakfast is the easiest way to get a table at short notice, and a late dinner after 10pm can also be easier than prime time. Weekend brunch and evenings book up, so reserve ahead. Prices sit at the upper-middle level for Manhattan. If you are short of time, a seat at the bar for oysters and a glass of wine is a good way to sample the place without committing to a full meal. The restaurant suits couples, friends and families with older children, and it is a classic choice for visitors wanting a lively, very New York take on Paris.

Balthazar is at 80 Spring Street, at the corner of Crosby Street, close to Spring Street station on the 6 line and Prince Street on the N, R and W. SoHo's shops and galleries surround it, and Little Italy, Nolita and Chinatown are within easy walking distance to the east and south.