Campo de’ Fiori

Campo de' Fiori, literally the field of flowers, is one of the liveliest squares in Rome's historic centre and, unusually for the city, has no church. In the Middle Ages it really was an open meadow; it was paved in the 15th century and became a busy hub of inns, workshops and trade on the route between the Vatican and the centre. A market has been held here daily since 1869, and the surrounding streets are named after the crafts once practised in them, from hat-makers on Via dei Cappellari to crossbow-makers on Via dei Balestrari.

In the middle of the square stands Ettore Ferrari's statue of Giordano Bruno, unveiled in 1889. The hooded philosopher was burned at the stake on this spot in 1600 for heresy, and the statue was deliberately placed facing the Vatican. It became a symbol of free thought in the newly united Italy, and the base carries reliefs of scenes from his trial and the names of other thinkers persecuted for their ideas.

In the morning, stalls fill the square with fruit, vegetables, flowers, spices, dried pasta, olive oil and souvenirs. The market is increasingly aimed at visitors, and prices reflect that, but it remains an enjoyable stop, especially if you combine it with the bakeries and delis on the surrounding streets. Antico Forno Roscioli on Via dei Chiavari and the Roscioli Salumeria on Via dei Giubbonari are both a minute's walk away, and the historic Forno Campo de' Fiori sells pizza bianca by the slice on the square itself.

The square changes character in the afternoon, once the stalls are packed away. Its bars and restaurants fill the piazza with tables, and in the evening it becomes a popular meeting point for young Romans and visitors, lively and loud late into the night at weekends. Watch your belongings in the crowds. Sitting on the steps of the statue with a drink is a long-standing local habit.

Campo de' Fiori suits anyone exploring the centre on foot, and it is easy to include on a walk between Piazza Navona, a few minutes to the north, and the Jewish Ghetto to the south-east. Palazzo Farnese, now the French embassy, faces its own elegant square just behind. Buses and tram 8 stop at Largo di Torre Argentina, around five minutes' walk away.