Thing to do
Trastevere
Rome's 13th rione, across the Tiber from the centre, is a web of cobbled lanes, ancient churches and trattorias that comes alive in the evening.
Officially Parco Savello, this small orange-tree garden on the Aventine Hill was laid out in 1932 and offers one of Rome's best free panoramas.
Good to know
The Giardino degli Aranci, officially called Parco Savello, is a small public garden on the top of the Aventine Hill. It was laid out in 1932 by the architect Raffaele De Vico on the site of a fortress built by the Savelli family in the Middle Ages, and some of the old crenellated walls still enclose it. Its popular name comes from the rows of bitter orange trees that line the paths, a reminder of the orange tree said to have been planted by St Dominic in the cloister of the neighbouring convent.
A central avenue leads through the trees to a terrace at the far end, where the view opens out across the Tiber to Trastevere, the domes and bell towers of the historic centre and the great dome of St Peter's on the skyline. It is one of the finest free panoramas in Rome, and unlike many viewpoints it is reached without a steep climb from the top of the hill. Benches under the trees make it a pleasant place to pause with a picnic or a book.
Next door, the early Christian basilica of Santa Sabina, built in the fifth century, is worth a few minutes for its spare, light-filled interior and its carved cypress-wood doors, which include one of the oldest known depictions of the Crucifixion. A short walk along Via di Santa Sabina brings you to Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, where visitors queue to look through the keyhole of the priory gate, which frames a view of St Peter's dome at the end of a garden avenue.
Sunset is the most atmospheric time to visit, as the light falls across the city, but it is also the busiest, especially at weekends and in summer. Early mornings are calm and quiet. The garden is free to enter and generally open during daylight hours. It suits couples, photographers and anyone looking for a break from the busier sights, and children can run around safely on the paths.
The Aventine is a residential, leafy hill with little traffic and few shops, so it feels far removed from the centre. From Circo Massimo station on Metro Line B, walk up the hill via Clivo dei Publicii or the steps from Via di Valle Murcia in around 15 minutes. From the Bocca della Verità, the path up Clivo di Rocca Savella climbs directly to the garden's entrance.
Yes, it is a public garden with free entry.
Parco Savello.
The Tiber, Trastevere, the domes of the centre and St Peter's.
The basilica of Santa Sabina is next door, and the Knights of Malta keyhole is a short walk along the hill.
Sunset is the most atmospheric but busiest; early morning is quieter.
Walk up from Circo Massimo metro station in around 15 minutes.
It was laid out in 1932 by Raffaele De Vico.
Yes, the paths are safe and there is space to wander.
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