The Jerry Thomas Project

The Jerry Thomas Project is named after the 19th-century American bartender whose book is considered one of the first cocktail manuals. It was opened in 2010 by a group of Roman bartenders who wanted a small club where colleagues and enthusiasts could experiment and share ideas, and it presents itself as the first secret bar in Italy. Hidden behind an unmarked door on narrow Vicolo Cellini, near Chiesa Nuova, it has appeared six times on The World's 50 Best Bars list.

The bar's mission is to revive half-forgotten techniques and recipes from the golden age of cocktails, and the list is built around classics and their historic variations, made with care and precision. In 2013 the team launched its own vermouth, Vermouth del Professore, with the Quaglia distillery, which is used behind the bar and sold in bottles. The room is small, dim and intimate, with the atmosphere of a 1920s and 1930s speakeasy, and the bartenders are happy to talk through the menu or suggest something based on your tastes.

Because it is a speakeasy, entry is not as simple as walking in. Check the bar's website and social channels before you go for the current rules on reservations and how to gain entry, and book ahead, as space is very limited and it fills quickly, especially at weekends. Arriving without a reservation late in the evening is likely to mean a long wait or no entry at all.

It suits couples and small groups who want a quiet, focused cocktail experience, and anyone interested in the history of mixed drinks. It attracts bar professionals from around the world as well as curious drinkers. Prices are in line with top cocktail bars. The calm, low-lit room is part of the appeal, so it is not the place for a loud night out.

The team also runs a more relaxed Bar Room on Via del Moro 10 in Trastevere, which takes enquiries by WhatsApp on +39 340 733 2980, a good alternative if the speakeasy is full. The main bar is at Vicolo Cellini 30, a short walk from Piazza Navona, Campo de' Fiori and Via Giulia, so it is easy to combine with dinner in the historic centre. Buses run along nearby Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. General enquiries can be sent to [email protected].