Thing to do
Palais Garnier Visit
Self-guided or guided visits of Charles Garnier's opulent 1875 opera house, including the grand staircase, the Grand Foyer and Chagall's auditorium ceiling.
A 4.7 km planted walkway on a former railway line, running east from near Bastille along the top of the Viaduc des Arts.
Good to know
The Coulée verte René-Dumont is a planted walkway that runs for about 4.7 kilometres through the 12th arrondissement, following the route of the old railway line from the Bastille to Vincennes, which closed in 1969. It opened in stages from the late 1980s and early 1990s and is often described as the first elevated park of its kind, an idea later picked up by the High Line in New York. It is named after the agronomist and environmentalist René Dumont and is managed by the City of Paris.
The most distinctive section begins near the Opéra Bastille, where the path climbs onto the top of the Viaduc des Arts, a long brick viaduct whose arches below now house craft workshops, galleries and showrooms. Up on the viaduct, the walk passes between climbing roses, bamboo, lime trees and small water features, about ten metres above Avenue Daumesnil, with views into the upper floors of Haussmann apartment buildings. Further east the route drops to street level, passes through the Jardin de Reuilly with its lawns and footbridge, then continues along cuttings and tunnels towards the edge of the city near the Bois de Vincennes.
The walk suits anyone who wants a quieter side of Paris away from the main sights: runners, couples, families with older children and visitors staying in the east of the city. It is free, and you can join or leave it at several staircases along the way, some of which have lifts. Cycling is not allowed on the raised section, and dogs and picnics are restricted in some parts, so follow the signs. The walkway follows seasonal park hours set by the City of Paris and can close in storms or very high winds.
Walking the elevated section from Bastille to the Jardin de Reuilly takes about 30 to 40 minutes at an easy pace, and the full route takes around an hour and a half. Spring and early summer, when the roses and wisteria are in flower, are the best times. Weekday mornings are particularly peaceful.
The western end is a few minutes' walk from Bastille station on metro lines 1, 5 and 8, and Gare de Lyon is close to the middle of the viaduct. Afterwards, browse the workshops under the Viaduc des Arts, or walk to the Marché d'Aligre, one of the city's liveliest food markets, a short distance north of Avenue Daumesnil.
About 4.7 km from near Bastille to the eastern edge of the city.
No, it follows seasonal park hours set by the City of Paris and can close in storms.
Yes, the Coulée verte is a public park with free access.
Near the Opéra Bastille, at the western end of the Viaduc des Arts on Avenue Daumesnil.
Not on the elevated section; it is a pedestrian walkway.
About 30 to 40 minutes from Bastille to the Jardin de Reuilly, and around 90 minutes for the whole route.
Access is by staircases, some of which have lifts, so check the access points if you need step-free entry.
Tour operator
The classic Seine cruise company, sailing from Port de la Conférence by the Pont de l'Alma with guided sightseeing, brunch, lunch and dinner cruises.
Restaurant
A cavernous Belle Époque dining hall on the Grands Boulevards serving low-priced French classics non-stop, every day of the year.
Café
A Saint-Germain café dating from around 1887, famed as a haunt of Apollinaire, Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir and home of the Prix de Flore.
Bar
A historic American-style bar near the Opéra, open since 1911 and long said to be the birthplace of the Bloody Mary and the French 75.