Thing to do
Palais Garnier Visit
Self-guided or guided visits of Charles Garnier's opulent 1875 opera house, including the grand staircase, the Grand Foyer and Chagall's auditorium ceiling.
The flagship Paris department store, crowned by a 1912 Art Nouveau glass dome and a rooftop terrace with views across the city's rooftops.
Good to know
Galeries Lafayette began as a small drapery shop in the 1890s and grew into one of the best-known department stores in Europe. Its flagship on Boulevard Haussmann is crowned by a glass and steel dome completed in 1912, a high point of Art Nouveau design, with stained glass rising above tiers of gilded balconies. Even if you have no plans to shop, the building and its free rooftop terrace make it a worthwhile stop in the Opéra district.
Start in the main hall under the dome, which is best seen from the upper balconies. The Glasswalk, a glass walkway projecting into the space beneath the dome on the third floor, gives a dizzying view down to the ground floor. Then take the escalators or lifts to the top of the building, where the rooftop terrace opens onto the zinc roofs of the Grands Boulevards, with the Palais Garnier close by and views towards the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre and the Invalides. Entry to the terrace is free. In winter the store is known for its giant Christmas tree under the dome and its animated windows.
For food, the separate Lafayette Gourmet building has a large food hall with groceries, pastries and counters to eat at, and there are cafés and restaurants on several floors. The store covers fashion, beauty, homeware and luxury labels, spread across the main building and the separate men's and home stores nearby.
The store is open from 10am to 8.30pm Monday to Saturday and from 11am to 8pm on Sunday. Weekday mornings are the calmest time. The store warns that the rooftop may close temporarily in bad weather, so pick a dry day if the view is your main reason for going. Visitors from outside the EU can ask about tax-free shopping at the welcome desks. Allow about an hour for the dome, the Glasswalk and the rooftop, and longer if you plan to shop.
Chaussée d'Antin–La Fayette station on metro lines 7 and 9 has an exit beside the store, and Auber on RER A and Havre-Caumartin are also close. The Palais Garnier is across the street, and the Printemps department store, which has its own rooftop, is a few minutes' walk along Boulevard Haussmann.
Yes, the store warns that the rooftop may close temporarily in bad weather.
The glass and steel dome was completed in 1912.
Yes, access to the rooftop terrace is free.
10am to 8.30pm from Monday to Saturday, and 11am to 8pm on Sunday.
A glass walkway on the third floor that juts out beneath the dome, giving a view straight down to the ground floor.
Yes, Lafayette Gourmet has a food hall, and there are cafés and restaurants inside the store.
Chaussée d'Antin–La Fayette on metro lines 7 and 9, or Auber on RER A.
Tour operator
The classic Seine cruise company, sailing from Port de la Conférence by the Pont de l'Alma with guided sightseeing, brunch, lunch and dinner cruises.
Restaurant
A cavernous Belle Époque dining hall on the Grands Boulevards serving low-priced French classics non-stop, every day of the year.
Café
A Saint-Germain café dating from around 1887, famed as a haunt of Apollinaire, Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir and home of the Prix de Flore.
Bar
A historic American-style bar near the Opéra, open since 1911 and long said to be the birthplace of the Bloody Mary and the French 75.