L’As du Fallafel

L'As du Fallafel has been a fixture of Rue des Rosiers, the historic heart of the Jewish quarter in the Marais, since 1979. The small restaurant, with its green frontage and a takeaway window opening onto the street, serves kosher Middle Eastern food and is best known for falafel pitta sandwiches. It is one of the most recognised cheap eats in central Paris, and the queue outside is part of the street scene on most days.

The signature order is the falafel special: a warm pitta packed with crisp falafel, slices of fried aubergine, hummus, tahini, red and white cabbage and pickles, with harissa if you want heat. The portions are generous and the sandwich is messy to eat, so take plenty of napkins. Other choices include shawarma made with chicken or turkey, grilled meat plates and mixed salad platters, along with fresh lemonade. Inside there is seating at tables, where full plates are served at slightly higher prices than at the window.

The restaurant suits budget travellers, vegetarians (the falafel sandwich is meat-free), students and anyone exploring the Marais on foot. It is quick and informal, and staff often take orders and payment from people waiting in the queue to speed things up. Be prepared for a crowd at weekday lunchtimes and especially on Sunday, which is one of the busiest days in the area because the Marais shops are open.

As a kosher restaurant, it observes the Sabbath. The Paris tourist office lists it as open from Sunday to Thursday, 11am to 11.30pm, on Friday from 11am to 5pm, and closed on Saturday, and it may also close for Jewish holidays. Check before going if you are planning around a particular day. Expect to wait 10 to 20 minutes at peak times, less in mid-afternoon. Many people take their sandwich to the nearby Jardin des Rosiers–Joseph-Migneret, a quiet garden reached from Rue des Rosiers, to eat in peace.

Saint-Paul station on metro line 1 is about five minutes' walk away, and Hôtel de Ville on lines 1 and 11 is close too. Rue des Rosiers is lined with bakeries, delis and boutiques, and the Musée Carnavalet, the Place des Vosges and the Maison de Victor Hugo are all within a ten-minute walk.