Le Train Bleu

Le Train Bleu occupies the first floor of the Gare de Lyon, the station for trains to the south-east of France. It was created for the Exposition Universelle of 1900 as the station buffet and opened the following year. Its name comes from the famous luxury train that ran from Paris to the Riviera. The interior is one of the most lavish in the city, with gilded mouldings, chandeliers, carved wood and dozens of large painted panels showing the cities and landscapes served by the railway, from Marseille to Mont Blanc. It has been protected as a historic monument since the 1970s.

The food is classic French cuisine served with traditional brasserie theatre. Dishes such as the leg of lamb carved at the table, roast chicken, sole meunière and steak tartare sit alongside seasonal starters and desserts like baba au rhum. There are set menus as well as à la carte options. The prices are in the upscale range, reflecting the setting and the service, and many diners come for the room as much as the cooking.

The restaurant suits couples, special occasions, train travellers with time before a departure, and anyone who wants to see one of the finest Belle Époque interiors in Paris. Lunch is served daily from 11.15am to 2.30pm and dinner from 7pm to 10.30pm. The lounge bar, with leather armchairs overlooking the station concourse, is open from 7.30am to 10.30pm and is an easier way to see the decor over a coffee, breakfast or an aperitif without booking a full meal.

Reservations can be made through the restaurant's website, through TheFork, by phone or by email, and the restaurant warns against booking through other websites. Booking ahead is wise for dinner and weekend lunch, particularly if you want a window table. Allow at least an hour and a half for a meal, longer for a leisurely dinner. Smart casual dress fits the room.

The restaurant is reached by a staircase from Hall 1 of the Gare de Lyon, which is served by metro lines 1 and 14 and RER A and D. The Coulée verte and the Viaduc des Arts are a few minutes' walk away, and the Bastille, the Marché d'Aligre and the Seine riverside at the Cité de la Mode et du Design are all close by.