Le Relais de l’Entrecôte Saint-Germain

Le Relais de l'Entrecôte is built on a single idea: one set meal, served the same way since the restaurant group began in the 1950s. The Saint-Germain branch on Rue Saint-Benoît is one of a handful of Relais de l'Entrecôte restaurants in Paris and abroad, and its simple formula has made it a reliable choice in an area full of expensive restaurants.

There is no menu to choose from for the main course. Every meal starts with a green salad with walnuts and a mustard dressing, followed by thinly sliced sirloin (contre-filet) in the house's secret sauce, a rich, buttery green sauce whose recipe is closely guarded, with a generous portion of thin, crisp fries. The waitresses, in traditional black dresses and white aprons, ask only how you would like the steak cooked. Once you finish, a second serving of steak and fries is brought from a warming plate, so pace yourself. Desserts are chosen from a separate list, with classics such as profiteroles, vacherin and tarts, and there is a short wine list.

The restaurant suits meat lovers, families and anyone who wants a straightforward, good-value meal without deciding what to order. Vegetarians have very little choice, as the steak is the meal. Service is efficient, and the tables are close together, giving the room a busy, convivial feel.

It is open daily, from 12pm to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 11pm on weekdays, and from 12pm to 3pm and 6.30pm to 11pm at weekends and on public holidays. The restaurant does not take bookings, so queues form outside before opening, especially in the evening. Arriving 15 minutes before service starts, or coming late at lunch, gives the best chance of being seated quickly. A meal usually takes about an hour, and the bill is predictable because everyone eats the same main course. Payment by card is accepted.

Saint-Germain-des-Prés station on metro line 4 is around the corner, and Mabillon and Saint-Sulpice are also nearby. The restaurant is a few minutes' walk from the Café de Flore, Les Deux Magots and the church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, so it fits easily into an afternoon of browsing the area's bookshops and galleries.