Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood

Al Fahidi, long known as Al Bastakiya, preserves the low-rise Dubai of the decades before oil. Construction began in the 1890s, when merchants from Bastak in southern Iran settled beside the creek, and at its height the quarter held around 60 houses separated by narrow, winding lanes. Its buildings are made from coral stone, gypsum, teak, sandalwood and palm, and many are topped with barjeel, the wind towers that funnelled breezes into the rooms below before air conditioning existed.

The district came close to disappearing. Part of it was demolished in the 1980s, and the rest was due to follow until a preservation campaign, supported by a visit from Prince Charles, persuaded the authorities to keep it. Restoration by Dubai Municipality began in 2005, and today the area is managed by Dubai Culture as a heritage site.

Walking is the point here. The lanes are shaded and quiet, the doors are carved, and the windows facing the alleys are small and set high for privacy. Many houses now hold galleries, small specialist museums, craft spaces and cafés. The Coffee Museum spreads over two floors with roasting demonstrations, the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding runs Emirati meals and talks from House 26, and the Arabian Tea House serves breakfast under a large tree in its courtyard. The XVA Art Hotel and its gallery occupy a former family home. In season, the Sikka Art and Design Festival fills the houses with exhibitions.

Entry to the neighbourhood is free, and Dubai Culture lists it as open daily from 7am to 8pm. Mornings and late afternoons are the most pleasant times, especially from October to April; in summer, plan a short visit and duck into the air-conditioned museums and cafés. Allow one to two hours, or longer if you join a cultural meal. The lanes are mostly level but some surfaces are uneven.

The quarter sits on the Bur Dubai side of the creek, next to Al Fahidi Fort, the oldest surviving building in the city, and the Ruler's Court. Al Fahidi Metro station on the Green Line is a short walk away. The Al Seef waterfront, the Bur Dubai textile souk and the abra stations for the Deira souks are all within walking distance, making this a natural starting point for a day in old Dubai.