Pak Khlong Talat (Flower Market)

Pak Khlong Talat is Bangkok's main wholesale flower market, spread along Chak Phet Road and the lanes beside the Chao Phraya River near Memorial Bridge. Its history goes back to the reign of King Rama I, when it was a floating market where boats traded at the mouth of a canal, which is what its name refers to. Under King Rama V it became a fish market, and later it turned into the produce and flower market it is today. It operates around the clock, but the busiest hours are before dawn, when boats and trucks arrive from nearby provinces loaded with fresh flowers.

The highlight is the sheer quantity of blooms. Piles of roses, orchids, marigolds, chrysanthemums and lotus buds fill the pavements, sold in bundles of dozens or hundreds to florists, hotels and temples. Traders sit threading jasmine and marigold garlands, called phuang malai, which Thais offer at shrines and hang in taxis and shops for luck; watching their speed is one of the pleasures of a visit. Fruit and vegetable sellers occupy other parts of the market, and food stalls serve noodle soups and coffee to the workers through the night.

There is no entry fee and no fixed schedule, so you can come at any hour, but late evening and the hours before sunrise are the most atmospheric times. The lanes are narrow, wet underfoot and busy with porters pushing heavy trolleys, so wear closed shoes and step aside when carts come through. Ask before photographing traders up close. A garland or a small bunch of flowers makes a cheap and cheerful purchase.

The market suits photographers, early risers and anyone curious about daily life in the old town. Families with young children may find the late-night crowds and traffic tiring. Allow about an hour. Combine it with an evening on Yaowarat, or with a morning visit to the temples of Rattanakosin.

Sanam Chai MRT station on the Blue Line is a few minutes' walk away, and Yodpiman River Walk, a riverside shopping and dining complex directly behind the market, has its own pier, N6/1, on the Chao Phraya Express Boat route. Wat Pho, Museum Siam and Memorial Bridge are all within walking distance.