The Grand Palace

The Grand Palace was begun in 1782, when King Rama I moved the capital across the river from Thonburi and founded the Chakri dynasty on Rattanakosin Island. Its white crenellated walls enclose a little over 21 hectares of throne halls, pavilions, courtyards and the royal chapel of Wat Phra Kaew. Kings no longer live here, but the palace is still used for state ceremonies and royal events, which is why parts of it close at short notice and why the rules on behaviour and clothing are taken seriously.

Most visitors start in Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The small jade-green image sits high on a gilded altar inside the ordination hall, and the surrounding cloister is painted with a long mural cycle of the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana. Beyond it lie the outer courts of the palace proper, where the Chakri Maha Prasat Throne Hall, completed in 1882 under King Rama V, wears a Thai tiered roof on top of a European-style building, and the Dusit Maha Prasat Throne Hall shows the classical cruciform plan. The foreign visitor ticket also covers the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles inside the walls.

The site is open daily from 8:30, and tickets are sold at the gate or online until 15:30, so do not arrive mid-afternoon expecting to get in. Thai nationals enter free with an ID card. The dress code is strict: no sleeveless or see-through tops, no shorts, short skirts, torn or tight trousers. Ignore anyone outside who tells you the palace is closed today and offers an alternative trip; check the official website instead.

The palace suits anyone with an interest in Thai history, art or religion, and older children usually enjoy the giant demon guardians and gilded figures. Allow two to three hours. Go as early as you can, because heat and tour groups both build by late morning, and bring water and a hat for the open courtyards. Shoes come off inside the chapel, and photography of the Emerald Buddha itself is not permitted.

The nearest river pier is Tha Chang (N9) on the Chao Phraya Express Boat, reached from Sathorn Pier beside BTS Saphan Taksin. Sanam Chai MRT station is a short bus or taxi ride south. Wat Pho is about ten minutes' walk away, and Sanam Luang, the City Pillar Shrine and the Bangkok National Museum are all close by.