Yaowarat (Chinatown) Street Food

Yaowarat Road is the spine of Bangkok's Chinatown and, after dark, one of the city's best-known places to eat on the street. The road was laid out in the 1890s under King Rama V over former rice fields and canals, and runs for about a kilometre and a half from Odeon Circle near Wat Traimit towards the river. Its name honours the king's eldest son, the first crown prince. By day it is a working commercial street lined with gold shops, Chinese medicine dealers and wholesale traders; by night the pavements fill with food stalls and plastic tables under walls of neon signs.

The food reflects the area's Teochew Chinese heritage and its Thai neighbours. Look out for rolled rice noodle soup with a peppery broth, grilled seafood, roast duck and crispy pork, fried oyster omelettes, stir-fried noodles, bird's nest soup, durian and mango in season, and Chinese desserts such as black sesame dumplings in ginger syrup. Several long-running stalls and shophouse restaurants along the road and its side streets have been listed in the Michelin Guide, and the queues tell you which ones are popular that evening. Sampeng Lane, a narrow wholesale alley running parallel to the road, is worth a daytime wander for its cheap goods and traditional shops.

Most stalls set up in the late afternoon and trade until late, and many close one day a week, often Monday, so it is worth going on another evening. Order a few dishes from several vendors rather than a large meal from one, carry cash in small notes and expect to share tables. Pavements are narrow and traffic is heavy, so take care crossing the road. The area gets particularly busy during Chinese New Year, when the road closes to traffic for celebrations.

Yaowarat suits food lovers, groups of friends and adventurous eaters, and families with older children usually enjoy the noise and colour. Allow two to three hours for an evening graze. Joining a guided food tour is a good way to learn what to order on a first visit.

Wat Mangkon MRT station on the Blue Line is right in the middle of the area, and Hua Lamphong MRT is near Wat Traimit at the eastern end. Ratchawong Pier on the Chao Phraya Express Boat is at the river end of the district, and Talat Noi is a short walk south.