Somtum Der (Sala Daeng)

Somtum Der is a casual restaurant that specialises in the food of Isan, the northeastern region of Thailand, with its fiery salads, grilled meats and sticky rice. The Sala Daeng branch, on Sala Daeng Road just off Silom, is the group's best-known address, and it has since opened other outlets, including one in the old town at Tha Tien. It is a popular place with Bangkok office workers and visitors, and it gives a clean, comfortable introduction to a cuisine more often eaten at street stalls.

Som tum, or green papaya salad, is the heart of the menu, and there are many versions: the classic with peanuts and dried shrimp, a more pungent version with fermented fish sauce called pla ra, versions with salted crab, and others with cucumber, corn or fruit instead of papaya. Pair a salad with grilled chicken or pork neck, larb (a minced meat salad with toasted rice powder and herbs), sour Isan sausages, a soup such as tom saep, and baskets of sticky rice eaten with the fingers. Dishes can be very spicy; ask for mild if you are unsure, as the staff can adjust the heat.

The restaurant is open every day from 11:00 to 23:00, with last orders at 22:15. Bookings are not essential for lunch, but it fills up quickly at dinner, so arrive early or call ahead for larger groups. The atmosphere is lively and informal. Prices are moderate, with most dishes priced for sharing, and a meal for two with drinks is good value for central Bangkok.

Somtum Der suits groups of friends, couples and solo diners, and families with children who can handle spice or will happily eat grilled meats and sticky rice. It is a good choice for a relaxed meal before or after a visit to Lumphini Park or an evening on Silom. Allow about an hour.

The restaurant is at 5/5 Sala Daeng Road in Silom, Bang Rak, a few minutes' walk from Sala Daeng BTS station and Si Lom MRT station. Lumphini Park is across Rama IV Road, and the bars and night markets of Silom and Patpong are within walking distance.