Tsukiji Outer Market

Tsukiji, whose name means constructed land, was reclaimed from Tokyo Bay after the Great Fire of Meireki in 1657, and it was home to the largest wholesale fish market in the world until 2018, when the inner market and its famous tuna auctions moved to a new site at Toyosu. The Outer Market, the dense grid of retail shops and small restaurants that grew up beside the old wholesale halls, stayed put, and it remains one of the most enjoyable places in Tokyo to eat and shop for food. Many businesses here have been trading for generations and still supply restaurants and home cooks across the city.

The lanes are packed with stalls selling grilled scallops and eel, fresh oysters, tuna sashimi, sea urchin, skewers of wagyu and slices of sweet tamagoyaki omelette, often handed over on a stick to eat on the spot. Small counters serve bowls of rice topped with seafood, sushi and ramen from early morning. Between the food stalls, specialist shops sell professional kitchen knives, dried bonito flakes, kelp, green tea, pickles, pottery and tableware, and staff at the knife shops will often engrave a name on the blade you buy.

The market asks visitors to give professional buyers priority until 9:00, and the hours from 9:00 to 14:00 are set aside for the general public, so mid-morning is the ideal time; many shops start to close from late morning and most are shut by early afternoon. The market follows a published calendar of business days, with Sundays, national holidays and some Wednesdays off for many shops, so check the official calendar before you go. Eat where you buy rather than walking with food, keep to the side of the narrow lanes, and carry some cash because not every small vendor accepts cards. Weekends are the most crowded time.

The market suits food lovers, families and anyone curious about Japanese ingredients. Allow one and a half to two hours to graze and browse. If you want to see the tuna auctions, they now take place at Toyosu Market, which requires an early start and advance arrangements, so plan that as a separate outing. Tsukiji Hongan-ji, an unusual temple in Indian-inspired style, stands on the edge of the market and is worth a look.

Tsukijishijo Station on the Toei Oedo Line and Tsukiji Station on the Hibiya Line are each about a minute's walk away, and Ginza is around fifteen minutes on foot. Hama-rikyu Gardens is close by, which makes a good follow-on after a market breakfast.