Thing to do
Tsukiji Outer Market
The lively market streets that remained in Tsukiji after the wholesale fish market moved to Toyosu, packed with seafood stalls, knife shops and breakfast counters.
Omoide Yokocho
A narrow post-war alley by Shinjuku Station's west exit, packed with around 60 tiny yakitori counters, izakaya and bars under glowing lanterns.
At a glance
- Type
- Historic alley of bars and eateries
- Area
- Nishi-Shinjuku, Tokyo, Japan
- Official site
- shinjuku-omoide.com
Good to know
- Around 80 shops
- Yakitori counters
Why we recommend it
Omoide Yokocho, whose name translates roughly as Memory Lane, grew out of a street market that sprang up on bomb-damaged land beside Shinjuku Station soon after the Second World War. The black-market stalls of those years gradually became tiny restaurants and bars, and the alley has kept its low wooden frontages, hanging lanterns and tangle of overhead wiring while the skyscrapers of Nishi-Shinjuku rose around it. It is one of the most atmospheric survivals of post-war Tokyo.
Today the lanes hold around 80 businesses, about 60 of them restaurants and bars, packed into a few narrow passages running parallel to the railway tracks. Most are counter-only rooms seating a handful of people, where cooks grill skewers of yakitori over charcoal and the smoke drifts out over the alley. As well as chicken, many places specialise in offal, pork skewers, stews and simple izakaya dishes, served with beer, highballs, sake or shochu. A few shops serve noodles, sushi or grilled fish.
It is at its best after dark, when office workers drop in for a quick plate and a drink on their way home and the lanterns are lit. Seats are limited, so be prepared to look into a few places before you find room, and do not be surprised if some counters are reserved for regulars. Hours, prices and menus vary from shop to shop; many places charge a small cover or serve a compulsory starter, which is normal in Japanese bars. Some shops display English menus, and pointing at what your neighbours are eating also works.
The alley suits curious travellers, couples and small groups rather than large parties, which will struggle to sit together. It is a good place to start an evening in Shinjuku with a couple of skewers before moving on. Be considerate when taking photographs, as people inside are eating and drinking, and some shops ask visitors not to photograph inside. Smoking rules vary from shop to shop.
The alley lies just outside the west exit of Shinjuku Station, close to the JR, Odakyu, Keio and Marunouchi line platforms. Kabukicho and the bars of Golden Gai are about ten minutes' walk on the east side of the tracks, and the observation decks of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building are a short walk west.
Omoide Yokocho FAQs
When is the best time to visit?
Evenings, when the counters and grills are busiest; individual shops set their own hours.
Where exactly is it?
Next to the west exit of Shinjuku Station, close to the JR, Odakyu, Keio and Marunouchi line stations.
What should I eat?
Yakitori and other grilled skewers, with a beer or highball.
How many shops are there?
Around 80 businesses, about 60 of them restaurants and bars.
Is it suitable for groups?
Most places are tiny counters, so it works best for one to four people.
Is there a cover charge?
Some shops add a small cover charge or compulsory starter, which is common in Japanese bars.
Can I take photos?
Be considerate, as people are eating inside, and follow any signs asking you not to photograph.
What is nearby?
Golden Gai and Kabukicho are about ten minutes' walk on the east side of Shinjuku Station.