Brasserie Lipp

Brasserie Lipp has stood on Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1880, when Léonard Lipp, who came from Alsace, opened a beer hall serving the food of his home region. Its Belle Époque dining room, with ceramic tiles, painted ceilings, mirrors and leather banquettes, has changed little over the decades, and the brasserie became a well-known meeting place for writers, artists and politicians. It faces the Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots across the boulevard, completing the trio of famous Saint-Germain addresses.

The menu is classic brasserie fare with an Alsatian accent. The choucroute, a large plate of sauerkraut with sausages, ham and pork, is the dish most associated with the house, served with Alsatian beer or white wine. Other classics include sole meunière, pot-au-feu, steak tartare, herring with potatoes and seasonal oysters, with desserts such as millefeuille and baba au rhum. Waiters in long white aprons serve with old-fashioned formality.

Lipp suits visitors who enjoy traditional brasseries and their theatre: the regulars, the bustle of waiters and the sense of history. Seating on the ground floor is considered the most sought-after, while the upstairs room is quieter. It is a good place for a late meal, since it is open every day from 9am to 2am, and for a beer or coffee at the bar during the afternoon.

The room fills quickly at peak times, so calling ahead or arriving early for lunch or dinner, or late in the evening, is the simplest approach. Prices are in the upper-middle range for Paris, reflecting the setting. Allow an hour to an hour and a half for a full meal. Dress is smart casual, and the room is at its liveliest on weekday evenings. Lunch is a good alternative for visitors who want to see the interior in daylight and at a gentler pace.

Saint-Germain-des-Prés station on metro line 4 is just across the road, and Mabillon on line 10 is a short walk east. The church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, the bookshops and galleries of the area and the Rue de Rennes shops are all nearby, and the Jardin du Luxembourg is about ten minutes' walk to the south.