Pastéis de Belém

Pastéis de Belém is the bakery that made the Portuguese custard tart famous. In 1837 it began producing the original Pastéis de Belém, following a recipe linked to the monks of the nearby Jerónimos Monastery, and it has kept that recipe a closely guarded secret ever since. The tarts are still made by hand every day in the bakery behind the shop using traditional methods, and the name Pastéis de Belém is a registered trademark: elsewhere in Portugal the same type of pastry is sold as pastel de nata.

The tart itself is small, with a crisp, flaky pastry case and a rich egg custard filling, slightly caramelised on top. It is best eaten warm, within minutes of leaving the oven, and the custom is to dust it with cinnamon and icing sugar from the shakers on each table. Most people order two with a bica, the short Lisbon espresso, or a galão, a milky coffee served in a glass. The counter also sells other pastries and savoury snacks, marmelada and, at Christmas, Bolo-Rei and Bolo-Rainha.

There are two ways to visit. The take-away counter at the front often has a long queue stretching along the pavement, but it moves quickly, and the tarts come in boxes of six or more that travel well. Alternatively, walk inside past the counter to the table service area, a sequence of tiled rooms that extends far back into the building and can seat a large number of people. Even when the queue outside is long, there are often free tables inside, so it is worth checking before you join the line.

The bakery is open every day. Mornings and mid-afternoon on weekdays are usually calmer than lunchtime and weekends, when tour groups arrive. A visit takes 20 to 40 minutes, depending on queues. It suits everyone, from families to solo travellers, and it is a natural break during a day of sightseeing in Belém. Prices are modest, making it one of the most affordable historic experiences in the city.

The bakery is on Rua de Belém, the main street between the Belém train station and the Jerónimos Monastery, and tram 15E stops almost outside. The monastery, the Coach Museum and the gardens of Praça do Império are all within a few minutes' walk, so it is easy to slot in before or after your sightseeing.