Café
Pastéis de Belém
Since 1837 this Belém bakery has made its custard tarts by hand to a closely guarded recipe linked to the nearby Jerónimos Monastery.
A Brasileira
Opened in 1905 on Rua Garrett, this listed Chiado café was a meeting place for Lisbon's modernists, and a statue of Fernando Pessoa sits on its terrace.
At a glance
- Type
- Historic café
- Area
- Chiado, Lisbon, Portugal
- Price
- $$ · Mid-range
- Official site
- ovalordotempo.pt
Good to know
- Terrace
- Breakfast
- Bar
Why we recommend it
A Brasileira opened on 19 November 1905 on Rua Garrett, the main street of the Chiado, in a space that had previously been a shirt shop. Its founder, Adriano Soares Telles do Valle, had lived in Brazil, and he opened the café to sell Brazilian coffee, which explains both the name and its long association with the bica, the short espresso that Lisboetas drink throughout the day. It is one of the few historic Lisbon cafés from the early twentieth century still operating, and the building is listed as being of public interest.
The café became a meeting place for writers, artists and professionals, and it was an early stage for the modernist movement in Portugal. The poet Fernando Pessoa was a regular from the 1920s, and a bronze statue of him seated at a café table stands on the terrace outside, now one of the most photographed spots in the city. Inside, the narrow room has a long bar, mirrors, carved wood and paintings, and it keeps much of its period atmosphere.
Coffee remains the focus, with beans chosen for their quality and a nod to Brazilian origins. A bica taken standing at the bar is the traditional way to have it, and it is the quickest. The menu also offers breakfast, traditional pastries, sandwiches and classic dishes such as the Bife à Brasileira, so you can stay for a light meal. Prices on the terrace are higher than at the bar, as is usual in Lisbon cafés.
The terrace is very popular, and in the middle of the day it can be hard to find a seat, particularly next to the Pessoa statue. Come early in the morning to see the café at its quietest, or step inside, where it is often easier to find space. It suits anyone interested in the literary history of Lisbon, and it is a convenient rest stop while exploring the Chiado.
A Brasileira is next to the Baixa-Chiado metro station exit on Largo do Chiado, and tram 28 passes nearby. The Bertrand bookshop, the São Carlos theatre, the Carmo ruins and Bairro Alto are all a few minutes away on foot, and Rua Garrett leads downhill to the shops of the Baixa.
A Brasileira FAQs
When did A Brasileira open?
On 19 November 1905.
Why is there a statue of Fernando Pessoa outside?
The poet was a regular customer from the 1920s, and the statue commemorates his link with the café.
What should you order?
A bica, the short Lisbon espresso, ideally taken at the bar, with a pastry.
Does A Brasileira serve food?
Yes. It serves breakfast, pastries, sandwiches and classic dishes such as Bife à Brasileira.
Is it cheaper to stand at the bar?
Yes. As in many Lisbon cafés, prices at the bar are lower than at the tables on the terrace.
When is it least busy?
Early in the morning, before the terrace fills up.
How do you get there?
Take the metro to Baixa-Chiado and use the Chiado exit. The café is on Rua Garrett next to Largo do Chiado.