Firedoor

Firedoor is the restaurant of chef and owner Lennox Hastie, set in a converted warehouse building on Mary Street in Surry Hills. Its defining idea is simple and unusual: there is no gas or electric cooking at all. Everything on the menu, from bread and vegetables to seafood and aged beef, is cooked over fire, with the kitchen using different woods, embers and levels of heat to suit each ingredient.

The open kitchen and its hearths are the centre of the dining room, and watching the cooks manage the fires is part of the appeal. The menu is built around seasonal Australian produce and changes regularly according to what is available, so the specific dishes will vary from visit to visit. Expect the natural flavours of the ingredients to come first, with smoke used as a seasoning rather than overwhelming them.

Firedoor opens for dinner from Wednesday to Saturday, from 17:30 to 23:00 on Wednesdays and Thursdays and from 17:00 on Fridays and Saturdays. Lunch is served on Fridays and Saturdays from 12:00 to 16:00. The restaurant is closed from Sunday to Tuesday, so plan your visit around those days.

Tables are in high demand, so reserve well in advance, especially for weekend dinners. Sitting close to the kitchen gives the best view of the fires, so ask about counter or kitchen-facing seating when you book. Mention any dietary needs at the time of booking, as the menu is built around a fixed range of produce cooked over fire.

Lennox Hastie has written about cooking with fire, and his interest in the subject runs through the whole restaurant, from the choice of timber for each dish to the way the room is arranged around the hearths. Staff are happy to explain how individual dishes were cooked, which adds to the experience for curious diners.

The restaurant suits food lovers, couples and small groups who want a distinctive dinner rather than a quick meal. It is a good choice for a special occasion, though the atmosphere is relaxed rather than formal. Allow around two to three hours for a full dinner. Firedoor is about ten minutes' walk from Central station, on the western side of Surry Hills. The surrounding streets have many small bars and pubs, so it is easy to arrive early for a drink or continue the evening afterwards along Crown Street or around Central.