Mamak Chinatown

Mamak takes its name from the roadside stalls of Kuala Lumpur that serve Indian Malay street food, and its flagship restaurant on Goulburn Street brings that style of eating to the northern entrance of Sydney's Chinatown. It has become one of the city's most popular casual restaurants, and the queue outside at dinner time is a familiar sight.

Roti canai is the dish most people come for: flaky, layered flatbread served with curry for dipping. Beyond that, the menu covers ayam goreng, which is Malaysian-style fried chicken, kari ikan, a tangy fish curry with tomatoes, okra and eggplant, flame-grilled satay and nasi lemak, coconut rice served with sambal, peanuts, crispy anchovies, cucumber and egg. Kacang panjang belacan, stir-fried long beans with chilli and shrimp paste, and rojak, a salad with fritters and spicy peanut sauce, round out a shared meal.

The menu is designed for sharing, so coming in a group lets you try more dishes, and prices suit a casual meal. Lunch is served every day, from 11:30 to 14:30 on weekdays and until 17:30 at weekends. Dinner runs from 17:30 until 22:00 from Sunday to Thursday and until midnight on Fridays and Saturdays, which makes it a useful late-night option.

The Chinatown restaurant does not take reservations. Queues move quickly, but they are longest on Thursday and Friday nights, so arrive early in the evening or later on if you want a shorter wait. Service is fast and the room is busy and noisy, which is part of the experience.

If you are new to Malaysian food, ask the staff to explain the dishes and their spice levels. Portions are generous, so start with a couple of roti and add dishes as you go.

Mamak suits budget travellers, groups of friends and families who are happy with a lively setting. It is less suited to a quiet, lingering dinner. If you are in a hurry, it is also a good place for a quick plate of roti and curry. Town Hall and Central stations are both a short walk away, and the restaurant is close to Darling Harbour, the Capitol Theatre and Paddy's Markets. The group also has branches elsewhere in Sydney, including Chatswood and Parramatta.