Bennelong

Bennelong occupies the smallest of the Sydney Opera House shells, at the southern end of the building closest to Circular Quay. The dining room sits beneath the ribbed concrete vaults of Jørn Utzon's roof, with glass walls looking out over the harbour and the city, so the setting alone sets it apart from any other restaurant in Sydney. The kitchen is led by Peter Gilmore, one of Australia's most highly regarded chefs.

The cooking is contemporary Australian and built around produce from across the country. The menus draw on conversations with farmers, fishers, breeders and providores, and the wine list concentrates on Australian producers. Dishes change with the seasons, so rather than arriving with a fixed idea of what to order, ask the staff what is at its best.

There are three ways to eat here. The main restaurant offers a three-course choice menu, served for dinner every evening and for lunch from Friday to Sunday. The Counter, with side-by-side seating facing the kitchen, has an à la carte menu that suits a shorter or more casual meal. The Bennelong Bar is the most relaxed option, serving cocktails and smaller dishes and welcoming walk-ins from 17:30 on weekdays and from midday at weekends.

Booking ahead is strongly recommended for the restaurant and The Counter, particularly on evenings when there are performances in the Opera House. If you are going to a show, allow enough time to finish your meal without rushing; pre-theatre diners usually aim for an early sitting. The restaurant welcomes guests with access needs, and it is worth mentioning any requirements when you book.

Bennelong suits special occasions, couples and visitors who want one memorable meal that combines Sydney's best-known building with Australian produce. It is a formal restaurant in tone, though not stiff, and smart casual dress is appropriate.

For visitors on a tighter budget, the bar offers a way to enjoy the room and the views without committing to the full menu. A cocktail and a couple of smaller dishes at the bar before or after a performance gives a taste of the setting. Getting there is easy. Walk along the eastern side of Circular Quay from the station and ferry wharves, which takes about five minutes, and enter at the southern end of the Opera House. After dinner, a walk around the forecourt or along the edge of the Royal Botanic Garden gives views of the harbour and bridge lit up at night.