Faz Frio

Faz Frio, whose name means it is cold, is one of the oldest restaurants in Lisbon. Its exact age is uncertain, but city records suggest the business dates back to before 1863, and it is recognised by the city council's Lojas com História programme for historic shops. It sits on Rua Dom Pedro V, the street that links Bairro Alto with Príncipe Real, and its narrow front gives little hint of the old-fashioned dining room inside.

The interior is the main draw. Tables are set in private cubicles separated by wooden partitions decorated with drawings of old street trades, a layout that once allowed diners to eat in discretion. The space was refreshed some years ago while keeping its traditional character, and it still feels very much like a classic Lisbon eating house rather than a design-led restaurant.

The menu covers traditional Portuguese dishes at reasonable prices. Bacalhau, salt cod, is prepared in a different way on different days of the week, and there are steaks, bread soups in the style of the Alentejo and fish dishes. The house speciality is a seafood paella made to a recipe that has become associated with the restaurant, and it is a good dish to share between two. Portions are generous, the wine list is short and Portuguese, and service is straightforward.

Faz Frio suits travellers who want a plain, filling, traditional meal in a historic room without the prices of Chiado's smarter restaurants. It is popular with locals at lunchtime and with visitors in the evening, so arrive early or call ahead to reserve a booth, especially for dinner at weekends. It has traditionally served lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday, so call ahead to confirm current hours, particularly on Sundays. There is no website, so the phone is the best way to book.

The restaurant is a short walk from the São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint and the top of the Glória funicular route, and Príncipe Real's garden, shops and cafés are just up the street. Bairro Alto's bars are a few minutes downhill for an evening drink. The nearest metro station is Rato, about ten minutes on foot, or Restauradores, from which the walk uphill is steeper.